Family Matter – For Givenchy’s spring 2013 campaign, Riccardo Tisci tapped model Maricarla Boscono and her daughter Marialucas. Now for fall 2013, the label enlists another fashion family–superstar stylist Carine Roitfeld and her daughter Julia Restoin Roitfeld. The mother and daughter pose for Mert & Marcus in the autumn advertisements.
She was born into an aristocratic family that predisposed her to a life directed by fashion and art: her mother was a model for Schiaparelli, and her maternal grandfather, Sir Oswald Birley, was the favourite portrait painter of Queen Mary. Maxime’s brother is Mark Birley, who would later open Annabel’s nightclub in Berkeley Square.
From the age of seven, Loulou attended an English boarding school, where she learnt to cut herself off from reality and lose herself in imagination. Loulou spent her teenage years in London, which was a bohemian period for her. She worked as a fashion editor for Queen – now Harper’s Bazaar – magazine. As the Sixties were coming to a close, Loulou followed her mother to New York, where Maxime remarried to John MacKendry, a curator at the Metropolitan Museum.
In New York, Loulou soon found friends; amongst them, Robert Mapplethorpe and Andy Warhol. Her long career in fashion was about to take off. She modelled for Vogue; and like her mother, who had posed for Cecil Beaton, Loulou would model for fashion’s favourite photographers: Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, amongst others. She also designed prints for Halston.
In 1966 she got married to Desmond Fitzgerald, the Knight of Glin, but living in a cold Irish castle didn’t inspire her, and the union lasted less than a year.
Passing through Paris in 1968, Loulou was introduced to Yves Saint Laurent at a tea party given by Fernando Sanchez. Two years later he would ask her to join his team, and in 1972 she entered the house of Yves Saint Laurent. No one was closer to Yves than Loulou, and he gave her the responsibility of the accessories department.
To the house of Yves Saint Laurent, Loulou brought her fantasy, colour, attitude and daring style ; she was truly original. As her mother Maxime says, « All we had were rags and Loulou could turn them into riches and create a new look. She was the best-dressed woman with a safety pin. »
Loulou de la Falaise arrived in the fashion house in 1972. She designed over 300 articles of jewelry every year and was in charge of the maille line. Loulou de la Falaise’s true talent, apart from her evident professional qualities, is charm. Particular. Moving. The strange power of her gift for lightness, melded with the impeccable acuity of her eye for fashion. Intuitive, innate, particular. Her presence at my side is a dream.
Loulou de la Falaise was a close friend, muse and designer of Yves Saint Laurent for nearly 30 years. She began as a model for Vogue, designed prints for Halston, and worked on Saint Laurent’s couture and RTW collections building her reputation as a designer. She was born into a highly aristocratic family that would predispose her to a life directed by fashion and art. She was considered one of the best-dressed women in the world. After a thirty-year partnership, Yves Saint Laurent retired and she began her own label in February 2003. Her boutique at 21 rue Cambon was a fanfare of color and rich materials, reflecting her passion for her flower-filled country garden and her travels to far-flung destinations. She created collections of jewelry, ready-to-wear, accessories and decorative objects for the home. Her collections were carried in boutiques and department stores in Tokyo, New York, Casablanca, Toronto, Hong Kong, Brussels, London, Berlin, Geneva, and Zurich. In California, her jewelry retailed at the home store of ‘At Home at Sweet Things’ in Tiburon.
“Her true talent is her charm (as well as) her light but intuitive approach toward fashion”. Yves Saint Laurent
PRADA and The Great Gatsby celebrate the premiere of the much buzzed about cinematic masterpiece created by the famed Baz Luhrmann. What connects the famed Italian fashion label with the movie is a collaboration between Miuccia Prada and costume designer Catherine Martin who created together a slew of costumes for the long awaited film adaptation.
Inez and Vinoodh are a Dutch couple who have been arguably one of the most important duos in the fashion world for the last 20 years. Their seemingly endless contribution to high-end fashion adverts in magazines is nothing but staggering. Looking through their portfolio now and seeing adverts that I tore out and stuck on my wall during puberty is making me kind of emotional.
Not merely famed for single handedly making clothing adverts works of art, Inez and Vinoodh also take some of the most exquisite, revealing portraits of the more famous humans on the planet today. That portrait of Clint Eastwood in the smoke! Mind blowing.
Lionel Bawden is an Australian artist working in sculpture, performance, installation and painting. Bawden’s core practice exploits hexagonal coloured pencils as a sculptural material, reconfigured and carved into amorphous shapes, mining the material’s rich qualities of colour, geometry and metaphor. Bawden explores themes of flux, transformation and repetition as preconditions to our experience of the physical world, essential to the construction of identity. Bawden’s sculptural works harness landscape as a stand-in for the body, personal themes of desire, longing and interconnection become abstracted in a generative process to create form. Bawden’s recent paintings explore darker psychological states, grounded in an exploration of an ambivalent relationship between figure and landscape. These paintings mark a return to the figure after a sustained fascination with more oblique approaches to articulating aspects of the human condition.http://www.lionelbawden.com
La Bohème – Kasia Struss rocks a bold mix of eclectic prints, standout jewelry and even denim for the April 2013 edition of Numéro. The Polish beauty poses for Greg Kadel in polished studio images wearing designs from labels such as Calvin Klein Collection, Forget me not scarf and Chanel selected by stylist Bill Mullen. For beauty, Kasia dons elaborate braids by hair stylist Ward with metallic eyeshadow courtesy of makeup artist Mariel Barrera.
“We always do a lot of collage print in every collection and thought it would be nice to make a couple of the prints come to life and for the model to be part of the world in a short film. I like making funny fantasy worlds like the dinosaur underwater in the film, and for S/S13 we made a fantasy holiday city with tulip fields, roller coasters, mountains and ferris wheels. Mostly the images come from 1930s and 1940s holiday postcards.
I have always worked with collage, but more so lately. We focus mainly on print, and the prints are usually collaged from photos we have taken or old found images. I’m inspired by lots of different collage artists, like original Aleksander Rodchenko works, they are amazing. Also there’s lots of great collage on 1970s album sleeves.”
Central Saint Martins graduate Emma Cook has been making a name for herself over the past few seasons for her digitally prints featuring everything from African motifs to languorous swans. For the launch of her A/W13 collection, which takes an abstract line with dazzling acid green dots, Aztec zigzags and Lichenstein-esque pop art stars, she has created a short film which inserts a model into a universe papered with the swirling patterns of the clothes. Eclectic, witty, cool, it is a reflection of the brand ethos, and here she speaks to AnOther about her collage inspirations that brought the visual world of the short to life.